COLUMN: Begin winter care in November

We finally received our rainfall and now it’s time to plan our winter care for this November. There are still some landscaping maintenance tasks that must be done before we put everything away for the winter.

The winter planting season is here and the field grown trees and evergreens can be planted. These trees are larger than the container grown plants that can be planted anytime. The field grown trees give us many more varieties from which to choose from and a better roots system.

November and December are the best months to prune tree because they are dormant. Correct pruning and training help to maintain a tree’s health and vigor, regulate its shape and size and in some instances, improve ornamental qualities. It is important to prune young trees correctly to develop strong framework of evenly spaced branches. Because of our high temperatures and no rainfall for the last few months, most trees will need minimal pruning.

When pruning, trim out broken, dead or rubbing limbs first, and then trim for shape. Make all the cuts on the outside of the branch collar so as not to remove the tree’s defense mechanism against insect and disease attacks.

The fall planted bulbs such as tulips and daffodils need to be planted this month for best results. Adding fertilizer to the hole at time of planting will provide enough nutrients to last through the winter months.

November is a good time to check around shrubs and flowerbeds for those small tree suckers that blended in during the summer. Mulberry, elm, redbud and other trees can be a nuisance if left to grow. Also check for bindweed and other vines growing throughout your shrubs.

Clean out your flowerbeds to reduce the chances of overwintering insect and disease pests. The more tender perennials will benefit from mulch, which will also reduce moisture loss. If any winter weeds are growing, they should be pulled out.

Plants in pots need extra care in the winter months. If they are houseplants placed outside in the summer they should be brought inside. If they are perennial outside plants, they still need watering throughout the winter months especially if rainfall is light. If they are annuals, remove any plants left in the pot and cover to keep other seeds from blowing into the potting soil.

When the temperatures are mild, many winters annual weeds can emerge in the lawn. The soil temperatures are still warm enough for a preemergence herbicide to be used. A post emergence type herbicide can also be used to control the broadleaf weeds, such as henbit, chickweed and dandelion. Spot spray when the daytime temperatures are above 50 degrees. Be careful applying herbicides during high winds with this herbicide around trees and shrubs because the chemical can blow to non-targeted plants.

Mowing the lawn again will help clean up the looks of the turfgrass and control some weeds. If tree leaves are a problem, use mulching lawn mower to grind the leaves into smaller pieces, or catch them and place in a compost pile. A layer of leaves left on the turfgrass will reduce evaporation and the resulting humidity can encourage diseases.

It is not too late to plant the winter flowers such as pansy, cabbage, kale and mums. There won’t be a lot of color during the winter months, however this spring, the garden will burst a beautiful spray of color.

Watering during the dry winter months will allow roots to grow for the spring growth. Pansies, cabbage, kale, mums and other new plants should be watered at least once a week. New trees and shrubs must be watered especially if winter moisture is limited.

Be sure to disconnect the water hoses so they won’t freeze and break in the walls.

Jim Coe lives in Lawton and writes a weekly column for The Lawton Constitution